Harbin

The Chinese Eastern Railway reached the Songhua River in 1898 and Harbin was laid out by Russians, then filled by Jews, Poles and White émigrés fleeing the revolution. The old districts of Daoli and Nangang keep the buildings; the Daowai quarter across the tracks has the Chinese answer to them, a grid of courtyard houses with baroque façades.

Winter is the reason most people come. From late December to February it is twenty below, the river is a road, and the Ice and Snow World lights up a whole town of carved ice after dark. Bring proper boots, layers, and hand warmers for your phone.

Summer Harbin is a different city: river beaches, beer gardens on Central Street, and long light evenings at 45 degrees north.

High-speed trains from Beijing take about five hours to Harbin West, on metro line 3; from Shenyang two hours, from Changchun one. Harbin station in the centre also takes fast trains and is walkable to Central Street. Taiping (HRB) airport is 35 kilometres south-west; the airport bus takes about an hour and taxis are metered.

Guobaorou, crisp sweet-and-sour pork, was invented here for Russian guests. Then red sausage, dalieba rye loaves from the Qiulin bakery, kvass, dumplings, and Madier ice cream eaten on the street at minus twenty. Russian restaurants on Central Street do borscht and stroganoff; the honest north-eastern cooking is in Daowai: stewed pork with vermicelli, pickled cabbage, big portions.