Summer Harbin is nearly empty, and the food is in Daowai either way

Everyone comes in January. From June to August the city is green and mild, the river has beaches and beer gardens, and the light lasts until late — a completely different, much cheaper trip.

Whichever season, eat in Daowai rather than on Central Street: stewed pork with vermicelli, pickled cabbage, enormous portions, in a quarter of baroque façades over Chinese courtyards. Keep Central Street for the red sausage, the rye loaves and an ice cream in the snow, which is a local point of pride.