Harbin
Harbin grew up around a Russian railway and still looks it: onion domes, cobbled Central Street, sausage and black bread. In winter the river freezes and the city builds a town out of ice. Summer is green and mild and nobody comes, which is its own argument.
- Region
- Heilongjiang, Northeast
- Best months
- Dec–Feb, Jun–Aug
- Airports
- HRB
- Suggested stay
- 2–3 days
Overview
The Chinese Eastern Railway reached the Songhua River in 1898 and Harbin was laid out by Russians, then filled by Jews, Poles and White émigrés fleeing the revolution. The old districts of Daoli and Nangang keep the buildings; the Daowai quarter across the tracks has the Chinese answer to them, a grid of courtyard houses with baroque façades.
Winter is the reason most people come. From late December to February it is twenty below, the river is a road, and the Ice and Snow World lights up a whole town of carved ice after dark. Bring proper boots, layers, and hand warmers for your phone.
Summer Harbin is a different city: river beaches, beer gardens on Central Street, and long light evenings at 45 degrees north.
Getting there
High-speed trains from Beijing take about five hours to Harbin West, on metro line 3; from Shenyang two hours, from Changchun one. Harbin station in the centre also takes fast trains and is walkable to Central Street. Taiping (HRB) airport is 35 kilometres south-west; the airport bus takes about an hour and taxis are metered.
Rail tip. Your passport is your ticket. Book on 12306 or Trip.com, then go straight to the gate. See Getting around.
Where to stay
Daoli and Central Street
道里·中央大街The cobbled main street and the cathedral. Everything within a walk.
Hotels in old Russian buildings along and off Central Street. The river is at the end of the street, Sophia Cathedral ten minutes east.
Nangang and Guogeli Street
南岗·果戈里大街The railway quarter: churches, the old station area, a quieter Russian street.
Around Gogol Street and the Church of the Intercession. A metro ride or a long walk from Central Street.
Things to do
Central Street
中央大街A kilometre and a half of cobbles and Art Nouveau, from the station district to the river.
Saint Sophia Cathedral
圣索菲亚大教堂A 1907 Orthodox cathedral with a green onion dome, now an architecture museum.
Ice and Snow World
冰雪大世界A city of ice palaces cut from the river, lit from inside. Late December to February.
Old Daowai
道外中华巴洛克Chinese merchants' courtyards behind baroque façades. The other half of old Harbin.
Sun Island
太阳岛The park across the river: snow sculptures in winter, wetlands and beaches in summer.
Songhua River and Stalin Park
松花江·斯大林公园The riverbank promenade at the end of Central Street. Frozen and full of life in winter.
Eat
Guobaorou, crisp sweet-and-sour pork, was invented here for Russian guests. Then red sausage, dalieba rye loaves from the Qiulin bakery, kvass, dumplings, and Madier ice cream eaten on the street at minus twenty. Russian restaurants on Central Street do borscht and stroganoff; the honest north-eastern cooking is in Daowai: stewed pork with vermicelli, pickled cabbage, big portions.
From travellers in Harbin
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