Datong
Datong was a Northern Wei capital in the fifth century, and the caves they carved at Yungang are the earliest great Buddhist art in China. Add two Liao-dynasty monasteries in the old town and the Hanging Temple an hour away.
- Region
- Shanxi, North
- Best months
- May–Oct
- Airports
- DAT
- Suggested stay
- 2 days
Overview
The Tuoba rulers of the Northern Wei made Datong their capital in 398 and, over the next century, cut fifty thousand Buddhist figures into a sandstone cliff west of the city. Yungang is where Indian and Central Asian styles first became Chinese, and the big exposed Buddha of Cave 20 is one of the country's great faces.
The city itself rebuilt its Ming walls and old town in the 2010s, controversially and completely. Inside, the Huayan and Shanhua monasteries are the real thing: Liao and Jin halls from the eleventh and twelfth centuries with painted clay figures to match.
The Hanging Temple, pinned to a cliff face in a gorge south-east of the city, and the wooden pagoda at Yingxian, the oldest and tallest timber tower in the world, make one long day. Datong is high, dry and cold from November to March.
Getting there
High-speed trains from Beijing North take about two hours to Datong South; from Taiyuan about an hour and a half, from Pingyao Ancient City around two and a half with a change at Taiyuan. The old Datong station is closer to the walls. Yungang (DAT) airport, 15 kilometres east, has a few domestic flights.
Rail tip. Your passport is your ticket. Book on 12306 or Trip.com, then go straight to the gate. See Getting around.
Where to stay
Old town
古城Inside the rebuilt walls, near the two monasteries. Courtyard hotels, quiet nights.
The Drum Tower and Huayan Monastery are the centre. Hotels in reconstructed courtyard houses; the wall walk is minutes away.
Around Datong South
大同南站The new district by the high-speed station. Practical, characterless.
Chain hotels and a twenty-minute taxi to the walls. Only for very early trains.
Things to do
Yungang Grottoes
云冈石窟Fifty-three caves of fifth-century Buddhas in a sandstone cliff. Half a day at least.
Hanging Temple
悬空寺A temple on stilts fifty metres up a cliff face, fifteen centuries old. Sixty-five kilometres south-east.
Huayan Monastery
华严寺A Liao-dynasty monastery facing east, with a sutra library of painted clay bodhisattvas.
Shanhua Monastery
善化寺A quieter Liao and Jin temple by the south wall, with the twenty-four devas in painted clay.
Yingxian Wooden Pagoda
应县木塔A 67-metre timber pagoda from 1056, built without nails and leaning slightly. Seventy kilometres south.
City wall and Nine Dragon Screen
大同城墙·九龙壁A rebuilt Ming wall to walk at dusk, and a genuine Ming glazed-tile screen of nine dragons.
Eat
Datong claims the best knife-cut noodles in Shanxi, shaved from the block straight into the pot and served with braised pork or tomato and egg. Then lamb: shaomai dumplings with lamb, roast leg, Hunyuan cold noodles in vinegar, oat youmian rolled into honeycombs, and millet cake with sugar. Vinegar on the table everywhere.
From travellers in Datong
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