Xiamen
Xiamen is the gentlest city on the south-east coast: a walkable island of arcaded streets and seafront paths, with Gulangyu, a car-free island of colonial villas, five minutes away by ferry. Come for the pace, not a checklist.
- Region
- Fujian, East
- Best
- Oct–Dec, Mar–Apr
- Airports
- XMN
- Stay
- 2–3 days
Overview
The main island holds the old town, the university and a coastal road that loops the whole thing. Across a short strait sits Gulangyu, a former international settlement with no cars, no bikes, and several hundred villas in various states of elegant decay. Sleep on Gulangyu for a night if you can: the day-trippers leave on the last ferry and the lanes go quiet.
Back on the main island, Shapowei is the old fishing harbour turned café quarter, Zhongshan Road is the arcaded shopping street, and the university campus and Nanputuo Temple sit together at the south end.
It is a coastal city, so plan for rain in spring, typhoons in late summer, and the loveliest weather from October to December. The Hakka tulou roundhouses are three hours inland and make a good overnight.
Getting there
Gaoqi (XMN) is on the main island, twenty minutes from the centre by taxi or metro line 1. High-speed trains from Fuzhou take about an hour, Shenzhen two and a half, Guangzhou four, Shanghai five to six. Most of them use Xiamen North on the mainland, a metro ride away; some use Xiamen station on the island.
Rail tip. Your passport is your ticket. Book on 12306 or Trip.com, then go straight to the gate. See Getting around. The Trip.com link earns us a small commission at no cost to you (how that works).
Stay online. Google, WhatsApp and Instagram are blocked on Chinese networks; a travel eSIM that roams gets around it. Install one before you fly — Saily takes US$5 off a first plan with the code CHINA. See Staying online. The code earns us the same amount in Saily credits, at no cost to you (how that works).
Where to stay
Book on Trip.comGulangyu
鼓浪屿Villa guesthouses on the car-free island. One night at least.
Book ahead; the island's guesthouses are small. Ferries stop late in the evening, so you are committed once you are there, which is the point.
Shapowei and the old town
沙坡尾·中山路Harbour cafés, arcaded streets, the university next door.
The south-west corner of the main island. Everything is walkable, the ferry pier is close, and there are hotels of every size.
Zengcuo'an and the coast road
曾厝垵·环岛路A fishing village turned guesthouse strip on the beach. Fun, not quiet.
Busy with snack stalls and hostels. Good for a night if you want the sea outside the window and do not mind noise.
Booking. Compare hotels in Xiamen on Trip.com, filtered to its China travel essentials list: English-speaking staff, foreign cards, guest rating 8 or higher. See Where to stay. Booking through this link earns us a small commission at no cost to you (how that works).
Things to do
Gulangyu
鼓浪屿The villa island: consulates, churches, piano museums and lanes with no traffic at all.
Shapowei
沙坡尾The old fishing harbour, ringed with cafés and small galleries.
Nanputuo Temple
南普陀寺A working Buddhist temple at the foot of Wulao Peak, next to the university. Free.
Huandao Road
环岛路The coast road with a cycle path along the sea. Rent a bike and go as far as you like.
Hulishan Fortress
胡里山炮台A Qing coastal fort with a giant Krupp gun, on a headland at the start of the coast road.
Fujian tulou
福建土楼Hakka earthen roundhouses in the hills, three hours inland. Better with a night.
Eat
Southern Fujian eats from the sea: shacha noodles in a peanut-and-brine broth, oyster omelette, sea-worm jelly (tusundong, better than it sounds), ginger duck in winter, and peanut soup for breakfast. Gulangyu's pastry shops sell pineapple cakes and pork floss; the real cooking is in the lanes off Zhongshan Road and around the Eighth Market.
From travellers in Xiamen
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