Hundreds of carts appear around the Drum Tower at dusk and it is one of the best night markets in the north: guantang bao soup dumplings, almond tea thick with sesame and rose, fried liangfen, lamb on flatbread, candied sweet potato.
Eat in small orders and keep walking. A few of the older stalls still prefer cash, so carry some as well as the phone. Come from Zhengzhou or Luoyang in the afternoon, eat, and have the calm morning town to yourself.
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