Wild mushroom season is glorious, and not the moment to experiment

From June to September the whole province cooks mushrooms, and Kunming's restaurants build their menus around them. Some of the best species are mildly toxic until they are cooked through — hospitals here see cases every summer, and the local joke about seeing little people is a real symptom.

Eat them in restaurants, let the staff decide when the pot has boiled long enough, do not stir a hotpot early, and never buy from a stall to cook yourself. Steam-pot chicken is the safe delicious order any month.