The whole country runs on Beijing time, so Dali's evenings arrive late

Yunnan sits far west of the capital but keeps its clock, which means the sun goes down well after eight in summer. Kitchens in the villages still close early, so eat at seven and take the light afterwards rather than the other way round.

At 2,000 metres the sun is fierce and the nights are cold even in July: hat, sunscreen and a warm layer, whatever the forecast says the temperature is.