tip
Longmen in the afternoon, west bank first, for the light on the Buddhas
The main caves are on the west bank facing east, so morning light is flat on them and the afternoon sun comes round. Do the west side first, cross the bridge, and look back at the great Vairocana from the east bank late in the day.
Tickets are real-name and bought on the official account; the site is a kilometre long, so allow half a day and take water. In season there are separate tickets for the night opening, which is quieter and lit, and worth it if your train is late.
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