Breakfast is mianxian hu, and you point at what goes in it

A bowl of rice-vermicelli paste, then you choose the toppings from the trays at the front: braised pork, oyster, egg, vinegar-cured meat. It is the town's morning, and it costs very little.

Later there is runbing — a thin wrapper you fill yourself — satay noodles, sticky-rice rolls and iced fruit soup in the heat. Ginger duck is the winter dinner. The stalls around Kaiyuan Temple and along Zhongshan Road are where the town eats, and English menus are rare, so point cheerfully.